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Review: Restaurant Timbaali

We spent the day with some friends in Porvoo, a quaint small city some 50km east of Helsinki – it’s a rather charming place, especially in the summer, largely thanks to its old town area dating from centuries ago and a nice location by a rivermouth.

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For lunch, we went to Ravintola Timbaali, a place where we had eaten a couple of times before and if memory serves us right, had enjoyed immensly. It’s situated right in the heart of the old town with rustic interior and a nice covered summer inner courtyard where we sat to enjoy the sunny and balmy, +25C weather. We managed to secure a table minutes before the restaurant was packed with people (many of them foreign tourists on a daytrip) and more in waiting mode queuing outside. Reservations for the summer evenings are a necessity, I’m sure. Timbaali is best known for its snails, which are home-grown and come in a number of different varieties.

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Despite their staple food, it turned out Sarita was the only one who went with snails by choosing six snails in parmesan pistachio-butter (€9,80). Not a big fan of molluscs myself, I can only take her word that they were delicious.

The rest of us, it being lunch and all, actually skipped all appetizers, despite our waitress’s good attempt in trying to lure me into a Kir Royal after hearing me mention it.. To a potential horror of old-fashioned wine drinkers, we chose a bottle of the house white wine, a thoroughly delicious Chilean Morand? Pioneo Chardonnay (€28,50), despite all of us ordering meat as a main course. The wine list was obviously a careful selection of suitable wines with our Chardonnay being the perfect, lively wine for a warm summer day.

For the entr?es, I chose a fillet of beef with herbs and smoked potato bundle (€23,20, below first) while Sarita went with fillet of red deer with a bolete bake and roasted shallots (€23,80, below second). Both were, for the lack of a better word, perfect. My medium beef was exquisitely cooked, savory and wonderfully tender. Really wonderful, simple dishes of great quality – by far the best meat I’ve had in a long time.

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For dessert, all of us were unanimous in that it was Cr?me brûl?e (€6,50) that we wanted to try – a good choice, although I doubt the other ones would’ve been any worse. The brûl?e was beautifully caramelized and perfectly moist, making for a delicious finish for the meal.

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I must say that the price-quality ratio here was far superior to that of Restaurant Piha where we went to earlier this week (see the previous review). With the service impeccable (despite the Finnish curse of multiple-waitresses-per-table-problem) and the food close to perfection, there is not much to blame here. However, due to the paper napkins outside and some inconsequentially small details I’ll bring down the overall evaluation to “only” 5- out of 5 :)

Overall, quite possibly the best lunch I’ve ever had, at least in Finland. If in Porvoo, this is the place to go to – even if you’re not a snail-fan.

Review: Ravintola Piha

A couple of days ago we visited Restaurant Piha, an Italian style place situated “behind” the shopping center Forum (Eerikinkatu 2) and next to the reliably good Spanish place Parrilla Espanola. It was a Monday evening and our reservation was thoroughly unwarranted with the restaurant less than one quarter full.

First, a couple of words about the physical appearance of the place. The overall impression is a nice & clean environment with some quite interesting wooden door-decor and a big courtyard-style center with a glass ceiling. The setting worked nicely enough without being intrusive, so that was good. Looking more closely at the setup, the first snag that one hits is the cleanliness of the utensils and the glasses – the washing and polishing certainly could’ve been done better with clear watermarks on each.

What about the service? As is unfortunately quite common in Finnish restaurants, the table is served by multiple waitresses in seemingly random order. Often this creates more confusion than warranted, but here the service was mostly smooth; there was no excessive waiting as the old dishes were taken away and the next courses brought in in a timely manner. The services was friendly and worked well, but there was not even a hint that the waitresses would top up wine or water glasses – that was obviously left to the diners themselves to do. Of the menu, I liked the fact that it wasn’t overly long while it still offered plenty of choices. Also the wine list emphasized, quite appropriately, Italian wines with only a few selections from elsewhere. Nothing too fancy made it to either list but I consider that a good thing.

Then to the food. For starters, I went with the Fruity chicken salad Tandor with Yoghurt sauce with curry and honey (€9,50). The salad looked rather big for a starter salad, but it was very good so it didn’t really matter :) The presentation was quite good, but a bit impractical as it was very vertically-oriented. The yoghurt-based sauce went well with the salad and gave it a nice, rather neutral, taste which helped cleanse the palate with the appetizer (blueberry-flavored grappa with sparkling wine).

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The main course selection was difficult, with Sarita’s choice of Scampi on a skewer with Parmesan white wine risotto & chili-lime oil (€20,40) sounding very enticing. I ended up trying the Saltimbocca with marsala sauce; Veal schnitzel filled with parma ham and sage, potato wedges (€23,80). From the little I got to taste of the Scampi skewer and the risotto, they were excellent. The veal snitchel was also very good – although the real thing wasn’t filled with parma ham but rather wrapped in parma ham. The dish could’ve used some more color, there might’ve been a bit too many potatoes and the few vegetables looked liked they had been overcooked a little, but the schnitzel itself was done nicely and went along well with the parma ham. The presentation of the scampi skewer was nevertheless better.

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The dessert was nothing short of mouthwatering – my Creme Caramelle alla Amaretto (€6,20) was baked perfectly and the sauce was very nice. I also heard nothing but praise about Sarita’s fresh and brisk Lemon sorbet in sparkling wine (€4,80), a different kind of refreshing dessert. The presentation of both desserts was simple but flawless.

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As the mentioned price points would indicate, I consider Piha to be in the middle/upper middle class of Helsinki restaurants – by no means cheap, but definately not what one would consider expensive either. As the food was mostly good and the service wasn’t bad either, it was a thoroughly pleasant experience even with some of the details being a bit off. With the decent price level, I would recommend Ravintola Piha at 4- out of 5.

Teriyaki Meatballs

Teriyaki Meatballs

Long time, no post. I’ve been busy with work, and had a broken arm for some time, plus my apartment was under renovation, so apologies for long posting intervals :) I’m on a short business trip to Mariehamn, Åland, and having some extra time before my flight departs back home, so I figured this is as good time to blog as I’ll ever get :)

I’ve been using my trusty chinese bamboo steamer on weekly basis to cook salmon, as with steam the texture and taste gets close to perfection. My new salmon staple has become a soy sauce – wasabi marinated butterflied fillet, and I really, really love the sharpness of wasabi with warm, fatty fish. After months of raving I managed to get Anna try this dish, and albeit she liked it, apparently her steamed teriyaki salmon was even better ;) Sucker to new recipes, I tried hers, and surely it was super yummylicious!

This posting is not about steaming or fish. Enough of those already :) Since teriyaki salmon was so good, and the teriyaki sauce sooo easy to make from scratch, I decided to play around and make someting else. First I thought making chicken teriyaki, but I didn’t have chicken, but instead a pound of fat free super high grade ground beef left over from a steak tartar I made the day before.

S loves meatballs, so making them instead of some potentially fancier dish was an easy decision. Since teriyaki sauce can be done in a flash, the whole dish will be ready in 45 minutes, from fridge to the table. Basically teriyaki sauce is just mirin (japanese cooking wine), soy sauce and sugar mixed together. Simply dilute one table spoon of granulated sugar to 1/2 dl of mirin and soy sauce each and you’re done. 30 seconds in a microwave oven does the trick. I strongly suggest using low sodium soy sauce unless you have a serious death wish :D In this recipe I used 1 dl of regular soy sauce, and after all that salt I still feel the bloat :P

Teriyaki Meatballs

2-4 Servings (950 cal total)

Teriyaki Sauce

1 dl low sodium soy sauce
1 dl mirin
2 tbsp granulated sugar
2 tbsp Brown Maizena or similar corn starch
Meatballs

400 g (1 lb) fat free ground beef
2-3 shallots
3 small potatoes
2 cloves of garlic
black pepper to taste
Mix soy sauce, mirin and sugar, and quickly warm in the microwave oven. Stir until sugar has dissolved.

Mix shallots, raw potatoes, garlic and black pepper in a food processor until fine. Knead the mix together with the ground beef and 1/4 or slightly more of the teriyaki sauce. Make small meatballs, and place them onto a pan.

Cook the rest of the teriyaki sauce with corn starch until quite thick, and pour over the meatballs. Bake for 30 minutes in 200 degrees celcius until nice and brown.

One More for the Road

Koli, Finland. Trees, trees and more trees

Just back from a weeklong drive around Finland. Maitohorsma is in full bloom all over Finland, and the scenery is incredibly pretty, although a bit repetitive. Trees, trees and a whole lot more trees, dotted with lakes and more lakes.

One of the biggest challenges to traveling in Nordic countries is that in most smaller places, food options are really limited, ranging from dreary to dismal. On many previous car trips, a cheap portable grill in the trunk has been the perfect solution and the provider of some really memorable meals. This time, however, my husband was pretty fussy about his new car: ashes and bits of coal floating anywhere near it was a definite no-no. So before we started out, I had pretty low expectations foodwise – I wondered whether it is possible to travel in Finland for a week without resorting to either one of our recently adopted national dishes, pizza or kebab.

Considering that we didn’t really plan our trip in advance, we managed to eat surprisingly well throughout the trip. We relied on a few Google searches, local newspapers, and asking around. Although my main impression is that the most decent options in smaller places involves seeking out the skillful women who provide mass catering for schools and workplaces, we managed to have a few decent (if not stellar) meals in more gourmet oriented restaurants in larger cities like Kuopio. In general, the average price of a meal in a Finnish restaurant is slightly higher than what I got used to in New York: the quality of food is often a bit lower, as most Finnish customers are not particularly demanding. High quality produce and fresh fish were surprisingly hard to find (nigiri in Oulu – buyer beware). And too many places with chichi aspirations still resort to bizarre finishing touches – what’s with the pea shoots?

Anyhow, it’s good to be back home. The strawberry season is almost over, and I should make a few pretty jars of jam before it is too late. Before that, however, a recipe I have repeated countless times this summer –

Strawberry Daiquiri

The Ultimate Strawberry Daiquiri

serves 2 to 4, depending on the size of the glasses

5 dl ice
125-200 g frozen strawberries (softened for about 15-30 minutes before starting)
0.5 dl sugar
the juice of 1/2 lime
the juice of 1/2 lemon
1 dl dark rum

In a sturdy blender, combine ice, sugar and strawberries. Pour in lime juice, lemon juice and rum. Blend until smooth, the consistency of slush.

Rub the rim of a glass with the peel of the squeezed lime, dip in salt or sugar to create a frosty rim. Pour the daiquiri into glasses and serve.

As you prepare daiquiris a few times, you become more confident with the proportions and can start pouring without measuring. Adaptations are also fun: my current favorite involves equal amounts of ice and frozen strawberries, 2 tbsp of sugar and the juice of 1/2 lime and 1/2 to 1 dl of Bacardi Coco. (I know coconut liqueur sounds incredibly tacky, but I ran out of dark rum and the tequila I bought in Tijuana tastes of pizza herbs. The combination of strawberry and coconut works nicely as a dessert drink).

If you are pregnant or still waiting for the liver transplant, virgin daiquiris will work, too: you can substitute lemon-lime soda (Sprite or 7Up) for the rum. And yes, this is one of the really few recipes where frozen strawberries will work much better than fresh ones.

New Potatoes with Pickled Herring, Onions and Pickles

For many people asparagus season is the culinary high point of spring, but I couldn’t care less. But come the new season potatoes, and you got my undivided attention!

The spring is very late in Finland, so we have to wait still for domestic new season potatoes, which naturally are the best in the world (that means second to none, Pille) ;) Luckily countries such as Israel, Morocco and Cyprus provide us with very early potatoes. However, those are much larger and not nearly as sweet as their tiny, almost skinless Finnish cousins. To cook a domestic new season potato, it’s enough to rinse them under a running water, and the skin will fall of with a slightest rub of a hand.

Yesterday I got a big craving for new season potatoes with marinated herring, so I had to settle for Moroccoan imports. I could have bought Finnish, but at €35/kg ($20/lb) didn’t think so…

New season potatoes taste absolutely fantastic with nothing but some butter with them, but add some marinated herring and onions, and you’ve got a meal fit for kings. I especially like herrings made by a Swedish company Abba – The band ABBA actually asked their permission to use the same name. Abba Seafood was founded in 1838, ABBA the band in 1972 :) Abba has a large selection of herring in different marinades, by favorite being a French Onion marinade. IKEA sells some Abba herring products and other Swedish delicasies in all of their stores worldwide.

New Season Potatoes With Marinated Herring

serves two

1 jar of Abba marinated herrings
1/2 kg (1 lb) new season potatoes
2 shallot onions
pickles (cucumber)
butter
fresh dill

Boil the potatoes. Slice the onions and the pickles. Serve the potatoes with fresh butter on top and herrings straight from the jar. Garnish with some fresh dill.

In the picture above I also had some wild mushroom salad.